Returning south

It has been four years since I last departed from Bluff, off into that wild southern ocean, to visit Aotearoa New Zealand’s subantarctic islands. Falling back in time to the me that I was back then, in 2016, all the thrill and eagerness comes rushing back. The adventure of it! Wild seas, remote islands, strange ecosystems populated by seabirds and megaherbs.

Southern Royal albatross

In January, Dad and I made the journey once more, embarking the familiar Professor Khromov/Spirit of Enderby to head on a short trip to the Snares, Auckland, and Campbell islands. This time around, I was expedition staff, training to take on the role of guide/zodiac driver that I’ve longed for since first setting foot on that ship in 2015.

New Zealand (Hooker’s) sea lion pups observing a subantarctic skua

She was rough on us, that southern ocean! We changed the itinerary to avoid the worst of 80 knot westerlies and headed for Campbell first in a two-day bash through some vicious swells. It was a day in bed for many, and we were all relieved to finally come into the calm of Perseverance Harbour.

Pleurophyllum criniferum and Beeman hill, Campbell Island

I didn’t take that many photographs this trip. There wasn’t that sense of urgency I felt on the previous trips, and I was too busy learning new things, and breathing it all in. It was phenomenal to be back after four years, to see all the changes, for smells and sights and sounds to bring memories flooding back. That said, I still thoroughly enjoyed making images out on the open ocean, and reacquainting myself with all the wonderful creatures that call the islands home. The landscapes, which have still evaded my attempts to photograph the feeling of being there.

Southern Royal albatross, Campbell island

It was such a refreshing change from everything else I’ve been doing for the past four years. I love life at sea, being on the ship, and sharing this remote part of the world with a group of amazingly keen and knowledgeable people. Here’s to many more forays into the wild!

Light-mantled albatross, Carnley Harbour, Auckland islands

Edin

Seabird scientist and conservation photographer working in Aotearoa New Zealand.

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