Our landing at Neko Harbour was probably one of my favourites. Not only were there fuzzy Gentoo chicks everywhere, but it involved a hike that gave us a stunning view over the wide bay of icebergs. Glaciers pour down the side of the continent into the water, calving off the bergs that drift around the bay. The one nearest to us creaked and groaned like thunder, but we never saw anything fall away.While we hiked, two groups went out on zodiac cruises around the icebergs. From our vantage point they were nothing but tiny black blobs topped with even tinier orange specks. Humpback whales surfaced nearby, dwarfing them entirely.

Back down in the bay, we were completely surrounded by penguins. Neko Harbour is home to a huge colony of Gentoo penguins that covers all of the exposed rock up the hillside. Almost all of the chicks were still at the nests with their parents, so it was nice to get some photos of them together. Most were covered  in mud, but there were a few cleaner individuals who made good subjects. Penguin chicks look as if they have real attitude!

I have more photographs from Neko Harbour than any of our other landings, as we spent nearly three hours there. It’s one of the most visited places in Antarctica, but it didn’t feel like it. Despite seeing another ship leave as we arrived, it felt completely wild and isolated. The sun danced in and out of the clouds, patterning the landscape with shadows and shimmering reflections. Heading back to the ship was always my least favourite part of the day, but this time especially I didn’t want to leave!